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Marble Run

9/7/2014

1 Comment

 
Using these instructions from the Exploratorium, I built a marble run peg board.  We're hoping to use these with students in the Open Lab this year. 
Picture
Picture
Here's a video of my son explaining how it works and demonstrating a run:
The first version worked fine but I learned a few things from the process:

1. The cove moulding I bought fits a marble but the bottom of the wood is a V shape and doesn't balance well on the pegs.  I had to use a lot of masking tape to keep everything together.  At the Exploratorium, they had carved out grooves for the pegs to fit into on the bottom of the moulding but they also used flat-bottom moulding. 

             This:                                                                    Not this:

Picture
Picture
2. Using a rectangular base (1"x6"x20") is steady, especially with the 1/4" "proud" overhang, but it's a tripping hazard.  I'll definitely make the triangular base next time.

3. Even though I measured the spacer wood carefully and cut it carefully, it didn't fit together well at first.  I had to shave off some and even wood glue some shims to make everything fit tightly together and fit within the dimensions of the peg board.


4. The peg board from Home Depot was white on one side so I placed the white side facing inward.
  There are some inconsistencies on the peg board such as missing holes and double-drilled holes that are larger than normal.  I'll check this more carefully next time.  Fortunately, neither issue caused any real problems with the marble run.

5. I wasn't sure what to use for the bumpers so I bought 1"x3" (actually it measures 1"x2.5") pine and cut it into 4" lengths.
 

— Tatian Greenleaf
1 Comment
Tatian Greenleaf
9/21/2014 02:52:18 am

In order to stack multiple marble run boards, it will be necessary to make removable stands. I tried various prototypes, mostly using wing nuts to tighten the stand to the rest of the board. Each time I loosened the wing nuts, it also loosened the hex nuts on the interior area of the board, which would be a big problem if I constructed the whole board and glued and nailed everything together. I wouldn't be able to get inside it to re-tighten those nuts.

I appealed for advice on Facebook and two suggestions came from a friend and a family member. I went with a suggestion to use a countersink bit to countersink a hex nut between the two pieces of pine (the vertical sidebar and the triangular stand). I tried this with a 5/8" countersink drill bit and 5/16" hex nuts and it worked great! In all, I ended up using four 5/16" x 2" full thread hex bolts, four 5/16"-18 coarse thread hex nuts, four 5/16"-18 wingnuts, and eight 5/16" washers (some of the 5/16" washers wouldn't fit on the bolt... which I still don't understand, so I had to hunt around for ones that did) for each marble run board set.

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    Authors

    Tatian Greenleaf is the Design, Tinkering and Technology Intergrator at Mark Day School.

    David St. Martin is the Tinkerer in Residence at Mark Day School.

    Bonnie Nishihara is the
    Assistant Head for Educational Design and Innovation at Mark Day School.

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